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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.